Tuesday 29 September 2009

Update 3

Phew. Last one:

Last weekend was a little less hectic. After Korean class number two (I was late again. Shock.) we wandered around downtown again, but this time in the company of my hiking buddy who's been in Daegu for many years. She took us to see the backstreet markets, including 'greymarket' shops (with foreign goods of dubious origin), lots of stalls with second hand electronics, clothes and streetfood. It's really hard to describe places like that, and I'm not enough of a photographer to capture it, but it's really exciting to get into these little areas. In some sections, the stalls/shops were so close together, you were knocking things on both sides. It was fascinating to be so close to Korean life – just by being a foreigner, I usually feel a little arm's length. It seems to me that people are less self-conscious than in the UK/USA - but I keep thinking that could just be my misinterpretation of what I see. I feel like the culture is so different to my own that I can't be sure I'm understanding things correctly. (Not a bad feeling - I just don't think I can draw massive conclusions so quickly!) Again, Lacey has blogged about the after-class wanderings, and she has more photos...

So, that's about it for weekend shenanigans. In other news, I've started going to the local climbing gym, and have discovered how much of a jessie I am (bouldering is hard dammit!), and I have stocked my freezer at Costco. Food in general is getting easier – learning the Korean word for 'milk' (uyu) made me realise I was accidentally eating a lot of dairy – it was even hiding in mandu (my favourite dumplings). I feel soooooo much better now that I'm really dairy free again.

Life here is really starting to feel like 'life' rather than a holiday. It would be hard to overstate how good it feels to be doing this. My brain feels stretched and used in a way that it hasn't for some time and I wander about thinking about linguistic-y geekiness on a regular basis. (For the nerds out there (Hi Ben!) today's epiphany was that I have now studied an SVO language: English, VSO: Arabic and SOV: Korean! (and Dutch, but the verb-second rule muddies the waters somewhat). That's all three major classifications! Yay!) Socially, things are also settling in nicely. It's not as frantic as freshers' week, nor is it as lonely as my year in Utrecht was to begin with. I've found people to hike and climb with, people who want to explore Korea and just about everyone I've met seems to be up for a beer!

Tomorrow morning, we set off for Seoraksan - a national park up in the north east (it's actually above the 38th parallel!) for some hiking and general natural beauty. I'm hoping to get to the top of the highest peak (Daecheongbong), but I'm not sure if we'll make it. The owner of the climbing gym said the best way up is along a rocky ridge (yay!), and from looking at photos online, it sounds amazing. Will try to update sooner next time....

Update 2

Hiking -

This last weekend had an extra day tagged on (yay for long weekends!) so I went hiking with a fellow Yalie from a different branch. She's been here for many moons longer than I and has hiked quite a bit in the local hills. At her suggestion, we walked from Jisan (her neck of the woods) back to Siji over a lovely ridge. Not having done any serious walking for so long, it was a bit of a shock to the system, but it felt wonderful to blow away some cobwebs.

I did take a bunch of photos that day, but I'll do another post about hiking later. Not enough time now to do it justice!

One of the longest days in history...

The next day, I managed to be late for Korean class after getting lost in the downtown subway station (in my defense, there are 25 exits). I moved up from the most basic class, which means that it is a little too difficult, but I think if I do some studying between classes, I should be ok-ish. I just really didn't want to spend half my time there re-learning the letters.

At the end of the lesson, I was hanging about to let the teacher know that I was a bit newer to Korea than most of the class, when two other girls said the same thing. They also mentioned going to a baseball game so I went for it and asked if I could join them. Thus began an Adventure of Fun-ness. Lacey's already blogged about most of the day (including a slightly blurry snap of the bartender at Go Go Vinyl).

A few things to add... I ate lunch that had egg on it. Yes I scraped most of it off, but I didn't freak out, send it back to the kitchen or go hungry. I am Growing Up.

Baseball is fun to watch with a good crowd, but the game itself is less interesting than I remember... how people have the patience for cricket I cannot imagine.

Nightlife here seems to be aimed at children (drinking out of ziploc bags, sparklers, throwing ice beer glasses at targets, singing your heart out to rubbish pop songs, bubbles). And this is why it is So Much Fun. I have yet to encounter much 'coolness' in the nightlife, and I don't intend to seek it out.

Next day I was pretty knackered, but did manage to join some fellow teachers and their Korean friends for a wee barbeque next to a river near Siji. (Actually, it is kind of on the river, but the rocks are dry enough.) Good, relaxing, times were had by all and the boys even mustered up a little fire. A perfect end to the weekend.

Thursday 24 September 2009

Catch up....

Ok, so a lot has happened since the Seoul weekend, and another weekend is almost upon us, so I'll try to catch up before Chuseok (Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving – 1-4 Oct).

Daegu International Body Painting Festival -

As soon as I heard this was happening, I knew it was at the top of the to do list. I gather there was a big international competition in Daegu last year, so this year they thought they'd do it again, but the 'international' section was actually just 4 teams (the only girls without strategically placed band-aids), and most of the Korean teams looked to be shy art students with embarrassed models. Obviously we couldn't understand the chat during the presentation, but it was easy to tell that the main presenter was the Korean equivalent of a second-rate cable tv presenter – all shiny hair and forced laughter.

Here are some photos for your delectation...




Sensation Gonzales -

That night, I ran into a couple of local teachers and headed downtown to meet them. On the cards was the last gig by a the above-named local ex-pat cover band (phwoar check out the adjectives on that noun phrase...) after a quick stop at Go Go Vinyl. I think this might be my favourite place in Daegu – they serve dangerously tasty and reasonably priced cocktails in ziploc bags. The real highlight is the service: the two guys that work there dress like nutters (very art-school) and they always ask you to 'TASTE!' when they give you your bag – and once the transaction is complete, they hand you a sparkler. Brilliant! The band was ok too, and the crowd's enthusiasm was so infectious that I soon found myself belting out along with the best of them (I can hear your surprise from here.)

BEACH!!!

Waking up the next morning was far from easy...I very nearly decided that a day in bed was called for. However, I did not come to Korea to hide in my bed. So off we went to Pohang for a day of lounging on the sand. This was my second beach experience in Korea, and probably the last for the season. It was definitely better than Busan: the water was much cleaner and the beach was nearly empty! Yes, despite beautiful weather, and lovely water, Koreans don't go to the beach in September, because It Is Autumn. I cannot possibly complain about this illogical thinking because it gave us a fabulous day!


Wednesday 16 September 2009

Who will sa-e-ave your Seoul?

Another bad pun, yes. It's my blog and I'll use bad song lyrics if I want to. In case you were wondering, it's the self-righteous Jewel song in my head. Anyway, day two probably does not require so much writing, so I'll keep it brief...

First stop for culture was a Renoir exhibit at the Seoul Museum of Art. My buddy warned me that Koreans were a little different in their approach to museums, but I was not quite prepared for the massive queue of people slowly shuffling along – with absolutely no wandering about. Other than another small group of foreigners, we were the only people who stood out of the snake of people, and dotted about. I don't think we got too many dirty looks at least, so that's something. The exhibit itself was also notable, though really not my favourite – everything was a little too 'pretty'. I think this sculpture outside was actually my favourite thing there.


Next up was a palace nearby, and really I think the photos are better placed to describe it. I do love the skyscrapers in the background – there are a few places here where an old roof, or even part of an old roof, is completely swallowed up by modern concrete buildings. Mostly, there are just concrete buildings, so it's always nice to see something old hiding among them. We also caught the 'changing of the guard' – very touristy, but also good fun.





Friday 11 September 2009

I got Seoul, but I'm not a soldier

Another writing exercise for the kids is 'Process Writing' – where they practice using 'First, then, next, after that, finally'. So here is the process of our trip to Seoul....

First, I got up very very early on Saturday morning. This was possible due to excitement only, and my newly nocturnal body-clock fought back hard. Nonetheless, three of us Yalies made our way on the delightful KTX train up to Seoul. The KTX takes less than two hours, and is a very civilized way to travel. It's not cheap (over £40 return), but when you think about the time saved, and remember how much the oft-delayed trains of Britain cost, it's definitely worth it.

Next, we located our guesthouse. All that needs to be said about this is that it was a little further out than we'd anticipated and I shall take Lonely Planet recommendations with a pinch of salt in future. Having found it and dropped off our bags, we were all overheated, starving and a little cranky. This being Seoul, we decided to head to Itaewon, the foreigner district, for some home comforts at the American Diner. I do feel a smidge guilty that some of my favourite meals in Korea have been foreign food, but the burger at this place was Awesome. Much better than anything I've had in the UK. The other major selling point of Itaewon is the fantabulous English language bookshop. However, I did find the sensation of being in a majority again (Koreans don't really go to Itaewon) very unsettling. I didn't like it at all actually, and wanted to get back to normal Korea.


After that we hit the shops of Myeongdong. Here, we found overwhelmingly large crowds of Koreans and more raw capitalism than I have ever encountered. The choice of stuff was frankly intimidating, but I dug down deep and found I was able to face down my indecision and indeed, cash was spent. Most of it was in an American store (oh Forever 21, where have you been all my life?), but this is largely attributable to my rather Anglo-Saxon build not being compatible with tiny Korean dress shops.



Next, Insadong. A lovely district where every kind of Korean trinket is sold. If I buy you a souvenir, it will most likely be from here. There was one shop I want to live in – everything was handmade, colourful and Lovely. After all this shopping, we refreshed in one of the many tea-shops. We found ourselves in one which was decorated in the manner of an old-fashioned train, down to the graffiti on the walls, suitcases in racks and old train seats. The dedication to the theme was admirable.


Finally, dinner in Hongik University area. Oh the people watching. I wished I had 360° vision like a frog so I could take it all in. The students here were mental with the clothes, and it seemed like the whole world was out for a stroll and a drink. We just had some cheap dinner in an Orange store (not the phones, but 24-hour eateries) and wandered. While standing outside a little bar which had caught my eye, we were waved in by a rather flamboyantly dressed Korean chap (how I wish I had had the nerve to take a photo...) This bar was the highlight of the whole weekend for me. It was tiny: only 5 small tables and no real 'bar' to speak of, and the 'bartender' appeared to just be a local who also served beer and soju on occasion. The decoration was a arty in a not-too-pretentious way (lego-men!) and the clientèle was primarily Korean student-types. For all the amazingness of this establishment, we were awfully tired so we just enjoyed a couple of beers, and headed back to the guesthouse around 1ish – a very early night by Korean standards!

Thus ended Day One. AKA Day of Consumption. Day Two will follow shortly, and included more culture, and a few more snaps.

Wednesday 9 September 2009

How to deal with homesickness

Things I miss:
People – you know who you are
Glaswegians – I can't understand the banter here so I can't even tell if I'm missing out on great jokes
Stereo cafe – Oh Stereo, my lovely vegan retreat from city life, you have not been replaced in my heart!
Knowing how to cook stuff – I'm just not sure what food to buy, or what to do with it – it's like being a fresher all over again!
Being good at my job – Self-explanatory. I know this will improve with time.
Tatty scones – My number one craving.
Being able to read ingredients lists – Being lactose intolerant, this is quite important! It is improving though.
Living with people – Much as it has got on my nerves in the past, I miss having flatmates.
Whisky – Mmmmmm proper whisky...
My cds - The laptop speakers are crappy and my cd drive appears to have added its own little skips. Thanks for that.
My books - I do have reading material, I just miss my bookshelf full of stuff
A comfy bed – The mattress here is basically the same firmness as the floor.
Scottish mountains – Haven't seen anything quite as inspiring as Torridon, Glen Coe or Skye, but then I haven't really left the cities yet.
Orion Mountaineering Club – The only climbing chat I've had so far is about 'hiking' (i.e. hillwalking up a path with an unnecessary amount of gear). Need to find some proper mountaineers to continue my apprenticeship.


Things I would miss if I had to go home now:
Korean kids – Yes the middle-schoolers are draining, but on the whole, the children here are insanely adorable. And they give me sweets all the time. How can you not love a pint-sized cutie who provides candy??
Teaching – even though I'm a bit rubbish at it, I would really miss getting a whole room of 11 year olds to say 'vvvvvvvvvvvvvvv'
My walk to work – I'm beginning to think people-watching here beats Glasgow. And that is saying something.
Being allowed to be pushy in crowds – everyone does it here – my pushiness is finally socially acceptable!
The crazy-ass buildings – I'm sure the architects here get high a lot. Most buildings are basically cubes, but they go mental with the finishing touches. Cobblestones, bricks and stucco on one house anyone? Nice-uh.
Steamed dumplings – almost stodgy enough to be a Scottish food.
Konglish - beach-i, nice-uh, Teacher Jenniper, joo (instead of 'zoo')...I love it all, and that's just the pronunciation - I can't wait to I figure out all the phonotactic rules. Mmmmmmmm phonology........
Barbecuing your dinner at the table – Such a sociable and fun way to eat.
Korean mountains – Haven't explored enough yet, but they look damned tempting.
Soy bean paste - I still don't know the Korean name for this, but I already know I will be bringing a supply home with me.
Living on my own – Actually, I do quite like never having to wash another person's dishes. And never needing to close the bathroom door.
Shopping – Have only scratched the surface with this, but it is obviously a national pursuit.
Learning Korean - I can read the alphabet pretty quickly now, and I'm really excited about taking lessons.
Not knowing what's going on – It is draining to feel like a dolt for most of the day, and it can be embarrassing when Koreans correct you (they really do that by the way – I've had rice out of my hands because I was eating it wrong!) but I figure my brain is busy working this stuff out. There's definitely some learning going on, and that's always a good feeling.

Ok, I feel much better now. It seems like a good sign that the second list is longer. :)

Thursday 3 September 2009

Gee that camera phone's awful handy

Not feeling fabulous this evening (don't think the cow-spine soup last night agreed with my delicate Western constitution...) so will comfort myself with some nice photies:



Some local artwork.











Konglish....more on this another time. I am somewhat unsurprisingly captivated by Koreans' take on English.












Major fake plant action in the public toilet in the subway station...in the background you can see a 'squattie'.










Hang on, am I in Malaga??












A more tasteful seaside shot.











Awesome sculpture in the grounds of Daegu's World Cup Stadium. The blurs at the bottom are little kids trying to climb up the slick metal. Definitely some future climbers in that bunch.


My street. Photo taken after my first big night out. If you squint you might notice how crazy the wiring is. Now imagine the horrors of the plumbing...










My lovely livingroom. Nice-uh.




For when I just can't take any more fried meat.

Tuesday 1 September 2009

A New Routine

I've had a couple of groups of students writing about their daily routines, so I'll use this as a chance to practice the present simple tense for habitual actions!

I get up around noon. Yes, that is late, but I went in too work early today as I have new classes - this required me to leave at 2pm. So there is a context. I usually eat cereal with lactose free milk (score!) and an apple for breakfast. Today, there's no cereal so it's mandu (dumplings)...I prefer cereal I must say. I take a shower and apply huge amounts of anti-perspirant before leaving the house. The weather has started to cool off a little, but it's still a bit like walking through a sauna.

Then I pick up a cold coffee at the convenience store downstairs, and walk to work. There are one of two routes: along a wide, but not too busy, street with a tree-lined pavement, or through a series of parks. The latter has superior people-watching opportunities and I wish I could just film some of the sights along this route. Everyday there are lots of people selling things along the side of the road: bowls of vegetables are displayed on the ground and tended by 'ajummas' (old ladies), various market stalls sell street food and some even have fishtanks (live fish for breakfast anyone?) and on the main street by the school, you can buy bras from a display laid on the ground. This afternoon I saw a group of little girls outside their school dressed like tiny little belly dancers and shrieking at the cool breeze.

After a lovely 20 minute walk, I arrive at the school to be greeted by the wonderful WONDERFUL air-conditioning, and fight the kids onto the elevator. The teachers' office is on the seventh floor, and I have my own desk. I fetch my laptop from the cupboard, and plan my day's lessons. Today was a little busier than normal as we have new classes, it's a new month so all the folders need new paperwork, and I am now on a more normal (read: heavier) workload.

When the sing-song bell rings, we all troop down to the classrooms and deliver 45 minutes of scintillating EFL material. The first 3-4 classes are all elementary level, followed by another 3-4 of middle school. Over the course of the week, each teacher has 22-23 classes so we aren't doing the full 6 per day that the contract allows for. Today I had three delightful elementary classes – including one group of 'pre-Yale' (read: tiny) students who are utterly adorable, full of energy and cheeky as can be. While tiring, teaching them is good fun – provided you go in fully armed! Of course it is not all so much fun. The last two of the day were middle-schoolers in the throes of puberty who resent having to study English after school. At least 3 students have now pointed out to me that they should be allowed to speak Korean in the classroom because They Are In Korea. While a valid point, it gets tiresome explaining that it is the best way to learn the language their parents are paying us to teach them. These groups are a handful and it's going to take a hell of a lot of work on my part to make these classrooms even remotely nurturing learning environments!

Teaching finishes between 8:30 and 10:30 depending on schedule, and is usually followed by some food with other teachers. So I don't usually get home until around midnight-ish – and that's just not bedtime now. So I watch some cable tv, waste time on stolen wireless internet, or read a book if I'm feeling old-school. My apartment is definitely home now: all my postcards and my world map (from 1981 – go USSR go!) are on the walls and my little collection of rocks has found a home too (yep, I carried rocks all the way here).

All in all, its a pretty awesome routine, and I'm excited about all the stuff I'm going to add to it to fill in the morning hours and force me to go to bed at a slightly more reasonable time.