A permanent address

I have one!!!! An address that is where I live – not just where I'm staying for a little while. For the first time since I left the lovely flat in North Kelvinside in May, I live somewhere. Woop! Seems a good time to talk about housing...

I am told Yale teachers have nicer and bigger apartments than is typical. Not having been round other apartments, I can't say for sure, but I am very happy with what I've got. The new flat was recently vacated by a couple who've gone back to Canada, and they've left all sorts of goodies behind (English language magazines! teabags! herbs!!) The living room is really lovely and actually has a view – a real step up from the last one where all the windows looked out onto other walls. Biggest differences compared to home are in the kitchen and bathroom. Counter space does not seem to be very important as neither flat has any – even though there's definitely room for it – which means that the microwave is in the livingroom. I think, traditionally, Koreans would use the floor so maybe that's why. The Korean bathrooms deserve their very own heading...

Bathrooms -
Ok, so I'm going to have to talk about toilets now. Apologies for being uncouth, but it's hard to ignore such a fundamental issue. In the apartments, the toilet itself is normal, but there is no shower cubicle – the whole bathroom becomes your shower. This is actually awesome because you can simply hose down the bathroom to clean it.

Public toilets are sometimes also western-style, but squatting toilets are also common. One bathroom we used in Busan even had a mirror positioned so that you could see yourself when you were squatting to pee! (Koreans are very concerned about appearance, and routinely check themselves out in public) The other, and perhaps more troubling, difference is about loo roll. Apparently there is some kind of issue with plumbing here and loo roll blocks it. So. So all cubicles have a bin. For your loo roll. Yes, there are bins full of loo roll. That does smell pretty much how you think it would. Sorry to be gross, but it's one of the oddest, most foreign things I've come across so far.

Weather -
Not much to say here really, it's pretty constantly hot and soupy outside. It sometimes rains, which brings no relief from the high temperatures. Sometimes there's a little breeze, which is something to be savoured, and last night was actually a nice temperature, but I cannot wait for he weather to cool down. I was not made for this weather, and I finally understand why Mom used to talk about two shower days in Houston. That's being said, everywhere has airconditioning or fans, so it is tolerable. But I actually miss Glasgow's weather at the moment. I cannot believe I just said that.

Koreans -
Ok, after two weeks, I don't have any amazing insights, but I do have first impressions! So far, the only Koreans I've really spoken with are other employees at Yale. I know this makes it seem like I haven't made an effort, but really it is all about the language barrier. I can barely order steamed dumplings, never mind banter with the locals! Everyone I've spoken with have been extremely friendly, generous and welcoming. I have heard a lot of complaints from expats, and you do get stared at sometimes, but I'm going to stick to my own experiences, which have been universally positive so far. For example, after mentioning to another foreign teacher that I had managed to abandon 2 out of my 3 marker pens in classrooms during my first day, the Korean teacher that sits next to me offered me one of hers. A woman gave me a bunch of grapes for free because we'd got in such a muddle about how to buy them. My new landlady sent up her son with fresh tomato juice for me and Hong Jae (our 'Foreign Teachers Liaison' – in other words, a Legend) once we'd got everything upstairs. I don't mean to say that people at home are not generous, but it's really lovely when you're new to a place to have people be so nice to you.

Of course, I have also seen some rather odd sights. Koreans at the beach, for example. They are not like Westerners at the beach. The women generally avoid any kind of sun exposure, so you'll see ladies walking along the sand with long sleeves, gloves, a sun-visor and a scarf tied round their head. Also, the women wear heels All The Time. I was pre-warned of this, but I did not expect to see a mother playing with her child in the surf wearing a skirt and pumps. At one point, the water came up over her feet and left long tendrils of seaweed round both ankles. Definitely an image I will remember.

In general, it is obvious that appearance is very important to Koreans, and particularly the women. The fashion is more interesting than I expected, and they dress to impress at all times of the day. The whole 'conservative' thing is also less of a big deal than I thought it would be. There are plenty of hotpants and micromini skirts going around. Oh, and the ubiquitous heels. I'm told it's more about the shoulders here, which might explain why showing a lot of leg is no big deal.

First Impressions

Have broken things down into topics. Do feel free to pick and mix.

Work -
My biggest, and really only, freak out was on Monday morning when I realised I would actually have to work here. I knew I had a few days of observation first, but I had hoped to have a week or something. Basically, I did not feel ready. It took maybe 5 minutes of watching a class to remember this is just teaching, and those are just kids. Really not a big deal. After watching a range of different sorts of classes, me and the other new teacher, who has a lot of experience, were let loose in the classrooms on Thursday and Friday. Have only taught 5 lessons so far, and it will take a while before I'm totally comfortable with it, especially with the younger ones, but I know it will be fine. The school is well run, the air-conditioning is great, the kids are mostly well-behaved, and the other teachers are great. There's a general air that we're here to do a good job, not to do the minimum and get out, and I really like that.

Food -
Oh my goodness. The food. I have had some utterly delicious things to eat so far, but I have also discovered that, here at least, I am a bit of a picky eater. Not that I changed what I like to eat, it's just that the things I don't like seem to be really common. Most notably: eggs, seaweed, octopus and tofu. Turns out I don't really like spicy food here either – what they consider 'not spicy' is perfect for me! It's a bit like not being able to eat cheese in the Netherlands – it just seems like you're a bit fussy. So I will do my best. I will even try to eat some egg.

That being said, I have eaten very well – perhaps too well especially in terms of meat! Korean barbeque is awesome – 'galbi' (pork rib meat) is particularly yummy – and I'm a little obsessed with 'jjinmandu' (steamed dumplings). Tried my first bibimap (rice with lots of veggies) and Korean pancake this evening – both were excellent. And dairy free stuff is easier to find – they have lactofree and soya milk and I've even had dairy free ice-cream (though it did cost almost $10 for a pint!) Overall, while the food's not as healthy as I'd thought (there is a lot of fried meat going on) it is tasty – and cooking your dinner at the table is great fun!

Expats -
When you don't speak the local language, this is obviously key to settling in! Siji has a pretty sizeable community of expats, and everyone seems to know everyone. My co-workers are really lovely people, and have been extremely welcoming. We all went out for a leaving night for two of the teachers on Friday. I had been told before that a typical night in Korea started with food, followed by a bar, and finally a 'noraebang'. With the addition of a crappy nightclub full of foreigners to take things through til the wee hours, that is exactly how it went. For those who have not had the pleasure, a noraebang is a small room where you and your buddies sing karaoke - the main difference being that you don't have to inflict your singing on the whole bar! Definitely didn't think I would find myself belting out 'Like a Rolling Stone' with my boss at 2:45 in the morning, but I did and it was brilliant. Also didn't think I would request '500 miles' in the crappy nightclub, but I did and its a good way to find out where the Scots in the room are.

After this fabulous introduction to Korean nightlife, I went down to Busan for the weekend with a bunch of teachers from Daegu for 'Surf Fest'. Not so much a festival as a reason for a group of mates to go to the beach and hang out. Not that one needs much of a reason to do that. I realised I hadn't been to a beach (or worn a swimsuit!) since around 2005, and it was marvellously relaxing. On Saturday, we were a little more active and most of the others at least had a go at surfing, but yesterday was mainly about snoozing and Bloody Mary's. I believe there are few better ways to spend one's time.

Grog -
Can't ignore the title can I?! Well mostly the grog here is watery beer but, not being a big beer drinker back home, this probably bothers me less than it should. Obviously had a Bloody Mary yesterday, and I did accidentally bargain for a rather large dram of Jamieson on Friday night, but neither is really foreign.... The local firewater is, of course, soju. So far have only had one shot of this, and it didn't taste good, but didn't turn me into a monster or anything. I have been advised to avoid it for the first few months, which seems a little excessive, but I think I'll stick to the watery beer for now. And the cocktails in ziploc bags. Forgot about those. They were a bit mental.

Think that's enough just now. There are many more First Impressions of course - I haven't even started on the Koreans or the weather yet! - but I'm in need of some sleep on my horrible waffly sheets.

Home of the cheese heads

Obviously started writing this before leaving for Daegu...

And so from the Netherlands to my parents' adopted home: Menomonie, Wisconsin. As usual, there was a lot of eating of tremendous food (highlights included beer-butt chicken, barbequed venison hind, Mexican seafood stew and, of course, the Oreos and Cap'n Crunch) and days with far too much tv. Also went on two trips in the trailer (that would be a caravan to those of you in the UK) with the parents and Chloe, their wonderfully daft 'Sheprador'. Sadly, we had to put Katy, our old Welsh border collie, down shortly before leaving. It was far from easy to say goodbye, but at 15 she'd had a good life, and travelled more than most.

First up was Wisconsin Dells – as my Dad put it “the Las Vegas of Wisconsin” - a staggeringly tacky resort town, with a high concentration of waterparks and screaming children. Unsurprisingly, we avoided this for the most part, instead taking a cruise on the Wisconsin Ducks and visiting the largest winery in Wisconsin. The Ducks really are quite strange, and noisy contraptions, used in WWII and the Korean War as amphibious transport vehicles – somehow there are still loads of these beasts about to take tourists around Wisconsin rivers and forests! Typically, this being Wisconsin and all, the tour guide is a student at the university in Menomonie, and knew my Dad. I am beginning to believe his is some kind of celebrity. The local wine was actually pretty impressive, and the setting quite idyllic. There was also time to admire the excesses of the campsite, where some of the caravans are more like houses, with landscaped gardens and golf carts which presumably saved the owners from the tiresome effort of walking to the pool.

The second trip was shorter, just a couple of days in Merrick State Park, not far from LaCrosse, WI. Mainly just chilled and enjoyed the peaceful rural surroundings, and a couple of good local coffee shops. And I got to drive my parents' vast car. Uh huh. I got to drive. Not one ding on my watch either. Though I think I did give Mom at least one heart attack (sorry Mom!)

While in Menomonie, I also, of course, spent some time in the Lakeside with Dad. The crowd has changed a little, but there were still some familiar faces, and some good chat to be had over a few whiskey and cokes, and I only stayed out too late once. Or maybe twice.... Also, despite the smoke filled atmosphere, I resisted the evil tobacco without even one cheat. My friend, Caitlin, doesn't work there anymore, but she and her husband, Eric, did take me to a barbeque at one of their friend's houses. A classic Wisconsin people-watching opportunity, with awesome food thrown in, and a chance to hang out with their baby, Jackson – pretty much the sweetest, most adorable baby around.

I think that about covers the main events of the visit. Just remains to say Thank You to Mom and Dad - I love having a second home in small town Wisconsin. Miss you both.

Arrival

Finally (FINALLY!!!) arrived in Daegu last night. After so much travelling and not much sleep in the course of 30+ hours (despite the marvellous comforts of the Korean Air flight), I slept extremely well. I must say the bedding is very very odd - sort of waffly stuff that feels a bit like it was meant to be the mattress protector rather than the sheets. Aside from that, and some issues with the lights, the flat is Marvellous - nice size and well supplied (toaster AND rice cooker!) and I seem to have no trouble logging on to an unsecured wireless network - result!

Met with my new boss and a couple of the other teachers, and have been shown around the area a little. Definitely like my neighbourhood, Siji. It doesn't feel like a big city, and actually reminds me a little of the west end of Glasgow - you know the city's 'just over there', but you can pretty much do everything in your little area. And most of the teachers live within a couple of blocks of my flat. Wonderfulness.

Will post something about the time in Menomonie shortly :)